The Verplanck Cemetary holds some fascinating secrets. For instance, here lies the great granddaughter of John Adams, the second President of the United States. See more shots, including the graves of black Civil War veterans, and a catalog issue Sears & Roebuck headstone circa 1880 here.
by Michael Daecher
“You can tell this marble is old because it isn’t perfectly round,” Butch said, as he handed it to me. Sure enough, it was almost round, but not quite -- made before the age of machine precision. 
Butch Van Vlack is showing me the gravestones of his ancestors, buried in the disheveled plots of the old Methodist cemetery on Verplanck Avenue. He found the marble here as he was cleaning up around the plots.
As he showed me the faded headstones of his relatives, he also pointed out the grave of the grand daughter of John Adams, the second President of the United States. We then walked over to the “colored” part of the cemetery, where the headstones are only marked with initials, not names. Here lies a black Civil War veteran, as well as an unmarked mass grave of Chinese immigrants who died working on the railroad. To Butch Van Vlack, this graveyard is just the beginning of a long tale of forgotten Beacon history. With family ties going back nearly 300 years, his knowledge of local folklore and insatiable curiosity have made him Beacon’s unofficial historian. I recently tried to keep up with Butch in a sprawling conversation at the Chthonic Clash coffee house.
Q: How long has your family lived here?
My family’s lived on the mountain since 1741. They were originally from Norway, but over the years the name changed to Van Vlack. My ancestors lived in New Amsterdam (now New York City) for 100 years before they came up here. They bought about 2000 acres from Madame Brett, and they owned the land
from Route 52 across 376 to 82, which at that time was Gayhead. There’s still a road around there called Van Vlack Road. Some of the old family graveyards are out there.
My family were carpenters and wheel makers. They had the first grist mill in the area, and the big stone wheel is still in the city hall in Hopewell Junction. Over time, they donated land for new roads, or sold off some pieces. The last big piece of land my family had was bought by J.C. Penney to create a dairy farm for his wife.
Q: What did your father do?
My father was a very hard blue collar worker who worked in the factories here in Beacon, like everyone else. There were very few people living here that weren’t blue collar workers. There were so many places in this town to work, that if you got fired from one place you could walk next door and they’d hire you.
There were a lot of bars, a lot of banks. There were probably 3 or 4 pool rooms. We’d go to the theater across the street (points to abandoned theater across from the coffee shop) in the afternoon when school was out. It was only 9 cents. We had 2 theaters in town: the Beacon, right across the street here, and the Roosevelt, which was right across from the Howland Library.
And there was a lot to do when I was a kid. For example, take ice skating. Behind Forrestal School is a gully, and down in there was a swamp area that would freeze over. We called that Turtle Pond. That’s where we’d play all our hockey games, with Newburgh and a few other places. We always won, because we used to cheat. We’d go there at night and break bottles on the ice, so they’d freeze in. We knew where were the bottles were and they didn’t. We had some rough teams, some rough games, you know?
Q: Do you think kids were tougher back then?
I guess you could call it tougher. No one had a lot of money. So this was a chance for a kid who kid who could play ball, to play ball. Nowadays some things are still tough like that, but they have to pay a lot of money to play ball. Any sport, you have to pay a lot of money.
There was always something for kids to do back then. Like the soap box derby. First prize was a new bicycle, so all the kids were into that. We’d whiz down Verplanck Avenue and stop by heading up the other side to the country club. The CYO dances on the weekend were also a lot of fun. That’s where you’d get to meet the girls. And there were quite a few teenage hangouts in town. You had the Alps Sweet Shop, the Texas Weiner (who had a special chili dog recipe that you could eat without getting an upset stomach). And you had the Yankee Clipper and the Four Corners, two diners directly across from each other.
Main Street was a different place back then. I can remember walking down the street when it was raining, and the only time you’d get wet was when you crossed the street. Every shop had an awning out front, with all their goods out front. It was wonderful.
You could hear some of the prettiest bells in the churches along Main Street. At Christmas time you could walk down the street and do your shopping, and the bells would be playing Christmas music. Right where the Salvation Army building is now, that old church. I don’t know what happened to those bells. There’s just nothing like that around anymore.
Q: Are you going to Spirit of Beacon Day?
No. I used to ride in a motorcycle club, called the Aces, of which I was the president. We used to ride in all the parades, but we haven’t done that in quite a while. Beacon’s always had a motorcycle club, from way back, when motorcycles first came out. They used to have a motorcycle hill climb back in the 20’s. People would come from all over for that.
Q: What did you ride?
I still ride a 1965 Honda 305 (bored out to 360cc), but we had Harley-Davidsons, Triumphs, and Kawasakis. People used to love to see the motorcycles ride in the parade. We had hot rods and dragsters, as it was a car and bike club. We used to do all the parades, not just Spirit of Beacon. We did this through the early 1990s, and the last one we did was for the Desert Storm troops, when they came home. The mayor rode in my sidecar in the parade. After that we weren’t invited anymore, which is fine with me. It’ll save my clutch.
Q: What are some things people new to Beacon need to know about?
There are a lot of things around this town that are beautiful, that most people don’t even know about. Like Sucker Falls. It’s the first dam up Fishkill Creek, around the old Madame Brett mill area. The fish used to spawn, and you could watch them going up the cracks of the rocks, mostly in the spring time. The herring and smelt used to run really heavy, but Texaco had a spill during spawning season, so you see very few these days. But you used to be able to walk across the creek on the fish. As a kid you’d go down there, get a wash bucket and knock a lot of holes in it, tie a rope on it, and drop it down off the Tiaoronda Bridge. As soon as you pulled it up you’d have a whole bucket full of smelt.
Down at Madame Brett Park, if you follow the wooden walkway above the creek over the pipes you can see a little beach out there. That’s where they had the big wheel, for the nets. They would pull the nets in from the bay with row boats, and they’d use the wheel to drag the net up on land. The only kind of fish the fishermen wanted was the shad. Anything else you could have. If you didn’t take them, they’d throw them back in.
If you look down stream at low tide off that bridge, you’ll see a big flat rock. That big rock has iron pins with rings where the sloops used to come up and tie up to that rock. This is what was told to me by my family members. Right now at low tide if you walk along that creek, it’s very possible you could find treasure: belt buckles, buttons, things that were made during the Civil War.
Little things like that are what most people don’t know about. The Mountain Road – the service road they call it now. That was the King’s Road that led to the King’s Highway, which was the Albany Post Road (now Route 9). Instead of going all the way around, they’d go straight over. During the Revolutionary War and Civil War -- they all used it. If you’re very unfamiliar with the mountain, that’s the best way to get to know it. That road takes you right up to the reservoir, to where the casino used to be, and to the towers. It’s beautiful up there. There’s an Indian burial ground up there, and a lot of mountaineers were buried up there.
Q: So you really do know where the bodies are buried!
[shrugs and laughs] The only way the mountaineers could be buried up there is if they were cremated. I know quite a few that were buried on Bald Hill, because it overlooks the city. And directly behind Bald Hill is where the Indian burial grounds are.
Q: Who were the mountaineers?
Some of the first settlers in this area. A lot of them were Scandinavian. Generations of woodcutters, whose biggest pride was how much wood could they chop and split. They knew every foot of the mountain, everything from animal trails to human trails.
People would contract with the mountaineers for firewood or timber for building. Whatever the clients said they wanted was how they cut the wood, like a split rail fence, or wood they could burn this year or next. (Locust and ash you can burn as soon as you cut them. Others you had to wait until they dried out.)
They believed that little people, like fairies, lived in the mountain. They respected that someone already lived in those woods even though they couldn’t see them. I think those beliefs came from the Indians.
But there are very few descendants of the mountaineers left. You know the guy who runs the hot dog stand outside the post office? He’s from a mountaineer family called the Baxters. And the Storms live at the end of Mountain Lane. They’ve been in this area longer than my family.
If you walk up and sit on Bald Hill, and you look at the city, you can almost visualize it without the houses, how it used to be. You can feel the difference in temperature – there’s a frost line in the mountain where it’s 10 degrees colder. It hits you like you’re walking into a wall. If you know where to look, you can still see the outlines of the foundations of the farms that were up there, the stone walls, and where the wells were. And there was also iron ore mining up there too.
You also have a cave up there, which few people know exists. When the Revolutionary War ended they didn’t carry all that stuff down. Most of it’s still in the cave: weapons, ammunition, you name it. Maybe it’s caved in a little bit. You have to know where to look. The night the casino burnt down, my mother and father spent the night in the cave. My mother told me never to go there. There’s nothing but snakes and death in there, she said.
Q: You know where it is?
A: Yeah, I know where it is. When you were a kid here, you got your junior hunting license, and climbed up Mt Beacon to learn how to live off the land: how to build a fire, catch your own food. You got to know the mountain really well. Your father taught you that kind of stuff. But you can’t do that any more.
Q: Would you tell me how to find it?
A: [chuckles] You’ll have to live a few more years in this town before you get to know that.
Editor’s Note: See more pictures of Verplanck Cemetery headstones.
Hikes Within Walking Distance From Main Street and Metro North, Beacon
by D. Adamsons
This month we’re going to look at four walks, all of which are easily accessible from Main Street and the Metro North train station in Beacon. The first two are hikes. The Incline Trail and the Hemlock Gorge, lead to Mount Beacon, offering steep climbs and rewarding views. The white trail on the gorge 
hike connects with the red, yellow and blue trails, offering a plethora of hikes, ranging from an hour to a full day. If you plan to remain on only one trail, you will be fine without a map. If trail surfing is what you’re interested in, take a trail guide and/or map with you, as it is quite easy to get temporarily lost. You could end up 2-4 hours from where you began, which is disconcerting if you are not prepared with water, snacks and proper clothing! Please respect the private property surrounding the park.
The last two, Dennings Point and The Estuary Rail Trail, at sea level, are more walks, rather than hikes, due to their flat topography. What makes these two walks special is their proximity to the Hudson River.
Gateway To Mount Beacon Park:
The Incline Rail Trail up to Mount Beacon
1.5 hours
Difficulty Level 4
Red Trail Markers
Take Main Street to Tioronda to 9D. Left on 9D. From the train station make a right onto 9D, traveling south. You will see the park entrance on the corner of Howland and 9D, across from Bob’s Corner Deli.
Walk towards the kiosk. The trailhead is just beyond it, running along side the old Mount Beacon Incline Railway tracks.
Follow the Red Trail Markers which appear on trees or painted directly on the rocks. Scenic Hudson construction on the stairway and viewpoint is nearing completion- currently composed of gravel and stones, it will soon be prepped for the concrete and steel. Walk along the side of the stones, on the earth, as the stones are difficult to walk safely on. This is steep climbing and a great cardiovascular workout. At the top of the gravel trail, on the concrete platform, turn around for your first vista. See the Newburgh/Beacon Bridge to the north crossing the Hudson, and the city of Beacon spread before you.
Now begins the natural trail, into the woods. At the crossroads with the Yellow Trail Markers, bear right. There is a tremendous amount of loose rock and rubble; be sure to watch your footing, both on the way up and down. As you gain altitude and climb the rock path with the boulder slabs, look back to catch spectacular views of the Hudson, the city of Beacon, and off in the distance, Poughkeepsie and the Mid-Hudson Bridge. At all crossroads, continue climbing. It is common to lose the red trail markers temporarily, but then pick them up soon enough ahead. If you don’t see another one within a few hundred feet, you’re probably off trail. Go back, find the last one, and try again.
At the top of the mountain lies the foundation of the old casino. It’s easy to see why this view has been enjoyed by generations and why this has been a favorite spot for many- the views are incredible. You can see the Catskills, NYC, and far to the north into Columbia County on a clear day. This is where the trail markers end, but the paths eventually hook up with the white, red, yellow and blue blazes, leading north and south.
The climb down, facing west, is a continuous view of the Hudson River and the city of Beacon, making it a nice way to end a hike, especially at sunset.
The Hemlock Gorge:
Up to Mount Beacon or the Reservoir
1-3 hours
Difficulty Level 2
Fishkill Ridge Trail, White Trail Markers
Take Main Street to East Main Street, taking a right onto East Main Street at the flashing yellow. Follow East Main, which veer right at the corner deli. Make a right at Pocket Road and park at the end of the street.
Walk through the gate, and pass the City of Beacon Water Tank on your left. (Don’t worry about the no trespassing signs, hikers are allowed to pass through these gates). At the split in the road, bear right, and look for your first white Scenic Hudson trail marker secured to a tree. On your left is Dry Brook. You will be walking alongside of this beautiful creek for awhile. Ahead it opens up to the cascade of a multi-level waterfall, which freezes in winter. It is truly a glorious sight, in any season, set against the green of the hemlocks and grays of the rocks and boulders.
Follow the White Trail Markers up the gorge until you reach the dirt road. To continue on to the reservoir, make a right up the road. It is another 15 minutes to the reservoir. If you are feeling more adventurous, or have more time, instead of taking a right, cross the road and follow the white trail markers back into the woods, and the trail, until you reach the fire lookout tower that is on the ridge beyond the reservoir, where you will enjoy expansive views of the Hudson River Valley.
The Estuary Rail Trail
Connecting Metro North and Dennings Point
One full lap- 45 minutes
Difficulty Level 1
From Metro North:
You can access the Estuary Trail from the river side of the train station. If you’re driving to the station9D to Beekman St. Make a right over the overpass heading back towards the train station. Make a sharp right into the Metro North parking lot. Take it all the way to the southern end of the lot where you will see the fence. A sign, welcoming visitors, will be installed soon. As of this writing, there is a temporary chain link with a space on the right to walk through. No worries, you are not trespassing.
From Denning’s Point:
Take 9D to South Ave. Head west towards the river. Bear right onto Dennings Ave. Left at the stop sign. You will see the Beacon Water Treatment Plant on your left. Go all the way to the gate and park. Scenic Hudson reports a Hudson Highland Park sign will soon be in place.
The Estuary Trail is a 1.7 mile recreational trail, open to walking, biking and fishing. It includes a fishing station with wheelchair access. The $1 million dollar project was constructed by Central Hudson and Electric Corporation as part of a settlement of legal suit brought by the State Department of Environmental Conservation(DEC) against the utility for smoke emissions at the Danskammer and Roseton power plants in Newburgh. Materials used are environmentally sensitive, with the design conforming to NY State Protection Laws regarding storm drainage. With more funds granted, the trail will end at Madam Brett Park. As of this writing, the trail stops at Dennings Point.
The project, conceived by Scenic Hudson and oversaw by DEC, crosses land owned by Scenic Hudson, New York State Parks, Metro North and the City of Beacon. This team of stakeholders worked together, and is a wonderful example of the reclaiming of one of the most beautiful rivers in the world. The 1800’s saw the Hudson River taken from the hands of the public and into the control of factories, railroad companies and shipping yards. The nature of commerce has changed dramatically since then, and we now find ourselves with amazing opportunities for reclaiming and protecting nature’s gifts. This partnership, and others like it, is an inspiration and noble example for future local projects, which will conceivably create one of the most exciting and revered waterfronts along the Hudson, and perhaps even the country.
At the end of Dennings Avenue go through the gate. Pass by the ruins of the paperclip factory on your left, which is the future home of The Rivers & Estuaries Center. At the wooden bridge, stop halfway and look to the south for the sweet view of shapely Sugar Loaf Mountain. After crossing the bridge, you will come to the Dennings Point sign. It is here that an overpowering aroma of flora and vegetation greets you…testament to what lies ahead on Dennings Point. Cross the railroad tracks. The Estuary Trail begins on your right.
The Estuary Trail runs in a fairly straight line. The waves lapping against the shore coupled with the monotony of the trail make it conducive to a meditative experience, when walking alone. In Thich Nhat Hanh’s, A Guide To Walking Meditation, the author wisely reminds us, “In our daily lives, we usually feel pressured to move ahead. We have to hurry. When walking, you go for a stroll. You have no purpose or direction in space or time. Going is important, not arriving. Walking meditation is not a means to an end; it is an end. We seem to move forward, but we do not go anywhere; we are not drawn by a goal. Thus we smile when we are walking”.
How freeing it is to understand and accept there will be no goal in the walk, only the walk itself. The Estuary Trail is perfect for practicing Walking Meditation.
The length of the trail takes us along the shore of the Hudson River, where you catch glimpses of water birds along the way. It runs parallel to the RR tracks, evidence of the relationship, past and present, between people, the river and the railroad. You will walk by Dia, another example of the regeneration of Beacon, where a relic of the past is transformed into a mecca of the present and future.
So soothing is the trail, I found myself thinking about it days after I had walked it. This walk is also great for enjoying the outdoors, getting some gentle exercise, or meeting a friend for a comforting stroll while mulling and reflecting.
The city of Beacon will maintain the trail and enforce Rules & Regulations. Signs were not posted as of this writing, but a conversation with the city informed me of the following:
Open from Dawn to Dusk
No Littering
No Dogs- leashed or unleashed
No Motorized Vehicles
No Camping and Fires
No Firearms
Dennings Point:
45 Minutes
Difficulty level 1.5
White Trail Markers
Follow the directions to the Estuary Trail, from Dennings Point.
After passing the Estuary Rail Trail on your right, continue. At the brown post with the universal park symbols, turn right, into the woods. At the fork, the choice is yours, as it is a loop. I prefer taking the trail to the left, which travels clockwise, with the river on my left. White Scenic Hudson trail markers lead the way, sporadically.
I have often found the collision of human history and nature to be both beautiful and romantic; the determination of a sapling sprouting from a crack in the floor of a factory ruin, moss spread out on steps leading nowhere, vines stretched from ground to roof, leaving the windows viewless. I love to imagine what life was like for the folks who worked in these buildings. There is one ruin on Dennings Point, probably one of the old brickworks, which sits right on the water, windows facing west. Did the sunsets render the workers’ toils a pleasure? Although I realize how difficult life was back then for most people, I can’t help wondering if life now is more complicated, with less time to enjoy what nature provides so freely and abundantly. How lucky we are to have this beautiful park and river as our backyard.
Riverfront towns have always intrigued and beckoned. The combination of what nature provides through the river, coupled with factories and the railroad, lends a different sense of human and natural history from living inland. The sight of a mile-long freight train across the river, white sails against the blue sky and green mountains, hawks riding the air currents, fog rolling up river, all bring about a state of mind not often found in modern life. One develops a relationship with a body of water, when seen at all hours of the day and seasons of the year.
I fell in love with Dennings Point at once. Upon first entering the woods, I was taken aback by the wildness of it all! Its untamed and natural state; vines everywhere, bird calls, and nature at her best- thick and lush, with a canopy shading quite nicely, bringing the temperature down at least 8-10 degrees, made me feel I was miles away. The aromatic scent of soil and flora everywhere!
The path is at times rather narrow from wild grass overflowing on both sides, and there are many felled trees across the path, making it necessary to trail blaze around them. Love it.
The trail markers appear sporadically. Just stay on the main path when confronted with a fork. There is one fork worth taking, though. When you begin to hear waves lapping the shore, after you go around a bend to the right, look for the path leading directly west, down to the river, where a pleasant surprise awaits us-a rocky beach!
After being in the woods, the vast expanse of the river and sky is exhilarating. A few trees offer shade, and scattered about are beached logs to rest on. It is quite peaceful to sit here for a spell; the lulling effects of the waves are comforting to the ears, eyes and soul. Of course, if you arrive at high tide, there is not much of a shore, but still worth the views.
Look south and see Bannerman’s Castle on its island, and just beyond it the Northern Gateway to the Highlands. You can see where the glacier carved its way, creating the east and west shoreline and, of course, the Hudson River. Across the river is Newburgh. At times a salty whiff of ocean reminds us of the tidal nature of the Hudson River.
As you continue on the path, you will come to another broken-down building, set in to the left. Sunlight poring through the glassless windows, trees growing flush against the outside wall and vines claiming the building as theirs, make it an exciting place to photograph.
Doing the Estuary Trail following the Dennings Point walk is a fine way to spend a few hours.
The riverfront will soon see an environmentally sensitive hotel and conference center, Long Dock Beacon, situated between Dia and the train station, and The Rivers and Estuaries Center has chosen Dennings Point as its home. All the projects on the Beacon Riverfront are testament to our commitment to preserving and respecting our history and natural environment. Each project celebrates the beauty of the river and the Hudson Highlands. It has not been a question of stopping progress, but rather a question of responsibly keeping up with it.
Trail maps and hiking guides are available at World’s End Books & Music, 532 Main Street, and The Rivers & Estuaries Center, 199 Main Street, both in Beacon. The author is happy to answer any hiking questions readers may have. 845.831.1760.
