Beacon Dispatch

Recipe: Traditional Christmas on a Worldwide Scale

by Bruce Beaty

Each December, when the holidays descend upon us, I'm intrigued by the ways people of different religious and ethnic backgrounds celebrate the social events of the season. One of the cool things about working in a restaurant and living in a diverse community is the opportunity to witness these divergent practices and see what makes us different and what makes us similar.  Over the years I've had the fortune to see the holidays through a very different lens than the one my Protestant, Southern upbringing provided.

I've learned about the Catholic tradition of a meatless Christmas Eve dinner called Cena della Vigilia , or dinner of the vigil, a multi-course dinner consisting mostly of fish and running anywhere from 7 to 13 courses. I've watched the Mexican and Ecuadorian cooks in my kitchen prepare Bacaloa, or salt cod for Christmas Eve, in a thin sauce of tomatoes, peppers and olives. I've also been served that same salt cod as a salad on Christmas morning at my in-law's house, reflecting their Trinidadian culture. A very good Chef friend of mine makes the best potato latkes I've ever tasted, like the ones his mother would serve from Hanukkah right through New Years, manifesting his Eastern European Jewish heritage. I've also been in Austria during the holidays and tasted the most delightful selection of pastries, strudels, and cakes imaginable. 

Despite the fact that December is probably the busiest month of the year for most of us, we always seem to make time for, and look forward to the times spent around the table with family and friends. Breaking bread and communing together are among the strongest ties that bind us together.

The following recipes represent conventions and customs I've discovered while traveling and living abroad, and working with a truly amazing mosaic of people from around the world. These recipes are not meant to represent a single menu. But each could be a very strong contribution to any pot-luck you might find yourself at this holiday season.

Recipe: Vegetarian Holiday Menu

by Bruce Beaty

When thinking about a theme for November’s recipe column, I was tempted to eschew anything related to Thanksgiving. It seems to me that every magazine, newspaper, or early morning TV program has recipes for the moistest, crispiest turkey, the best cranberry sauce, or a stuffing that can please everyone (even though our mothers make the world’s best stuffing.) So what would be the point?

As I thought about alternatives to Thanksgiving recipes, I kept being lured back in by the sweet, dulcet tones of the siren song of “Turkey Day.” In a moment of weakness, I caved.

I thought I might offer recipes for a satisfying vegetarian Thanksgiving menu, one that may not satiate every carnivore, but would supply some good “sides” to go along with a traditional turkey dinner for those who don’t eat meat. While I’m not at all a vegetarian, I adore vegetables and when in a restaurant, I will frequently choose a main course simply based on what accompanies a given dish. 

As an extra bonus, all of these recipes are good as pot-luck side dishes if you’re going as a guest to someone’s house for T-day. Either vegetable stock or chicken stock is fine where any recipes call for stock, depending on your level of commitment to vegetarianism. All of the recipes here are for 12 or more servings.

Recipe: Home Cooking, French Bistro Style

by Bruce Beaty

Alas, October is here. The pool is closed, the garden and the Farm are in their final stretches as we cross the bridge between the last warm days and the first chilly ones. Quick meals made from late summer vegetables, along with all good things coming off the grill, inevitably give way to more "comfort cooking." And although the grill has not yet been sequestered to the garage for the season, (mine never really is) the natural shift in the weather nudges our cooking indoors, toward slow-braises, roasts, and heartier fare. It's what I like to call "dig in food."

It was about this time of year that I moved to Paris to begin cooking as an apprentice, or "stagier" in some truly great restaurants. And although I had long since discovered some of New York's old-world, venerable French cooking institutions such as Chez Napoleon and Pierre au Tunnel, it was not until I lived in Burgundy that I truly understood what French Bistro life was all about. Well, of course it's about the cooking. Pure, simple, honest, real home cooking. It's what is referred to as " Cuisine Grand Mere," or Granmother's cooking. 'Nuff said. No wasabi glazes or tamarind foams to hide behind, no  "fusion cooking" that leads to "confusion," as a chef friend of mine once said. No nonsense upon stilts.

When I think of classic bistro food, I think of the most impossibly delicious, simple roast chicken, garlicky potato gratins, Leeks Vinaigrette, warm lentil salads, Moules Mariniere ( mussels steamed in white wine) Calves Liver with onions, Coq au Vin ( chicken stewed in red wine), Pot-au-Feu (beef braised in stock with vegetables) and of course Tarte Tatin, a French flag-waving dessert if ever there was one. But it's more than just the food. French bistros, like Italian trattorias, or the table of my mother's Southern upbringing, imply a sense of generosity,  familiarity and conviviality. They are characterized by a spirit of welcoming that says "rest your bones here."

I've included this month two classic soups, two salads, and a main course, all of which stay true to the spirit of their origins. As much as I encourage using recipes only as a template or a guideline, some of the classics deserve to be treated "comme il faut" ( as they should be) or "justement" ( correctly). The French are sometimes slow to adapt to new changes, and also reticent to throw out old classics in favor of the latest fad, particularly when it comes to food. And you know, that's really not a bad thing.

Recipe: Preserving Summer Produce

Simple instructions to can your favorite vegetables and fruits in no-time

by Bruce Beaty

Since I was a kid, I've always greeted September with mixed emotions. Weather-wise it's my favorite month. It’s still more summer than it is fall, with warm, less humid days and gradually cooling evenings that make for perfect sleeping conditions. It confirms the return to school, a more "normal" lifestyle and a busier daily schedule. It also marks the pinnacle of late summers' harvest. It's the last of the beautiful tomatoes, corn, plums and nectarines whose juicy ripeness can turn into rot in no time. 

September's recipes are about the abundance of produce and the scarcity of free time for cooking it. Included here are a few quick, healthy recipes that are geared more toward weekday meals than entertaining for large groups.

Recipe: August Explosion

Late summer is the best time to cook with vine ripened vegetables straight from the farm

by Bruce Beaty

August is upon us, and while it tortures us with dog days of relentless heat, on the farm it is a month of unrivaled abundance. The sizzling weather provides us with a dazzling array of fruits and vegetables that need only a minimum of attention and cooking to coax out their singular flavors. To best appreciate these simple delights, the quality and freshness of ingredients is paramount.

There are a number of benefits to buying your produce from a local farm. First, it tastes better.  You’re buying a product that’s at its freshest, and the thrill of eating something "just picked" is a revelation. Second, it’s good for the planet. You’re not spending dollars and wasting fossil fuels to have something shipped from across the country or world. Third, you support your local economy. You know the people who grow your food and are supporting their commitment to sustainable agriculture.

This is the time to look to small farms, independent organic farmers, and roadside markets for the best of what the season has to offer. As a chef, I know that people like to talk to those who cook their food -- they enjoy that connection. I, too, am inspired and excited by the people who grow our food and provide us with the treasures that make cooking fun, rewarding, and nutritious.  Here in Beacon, we are fortunate to have the talent and passion of farmers Joe and Rebecca Schwen at work at the Common Ground Farm, a vital center of organic farming here in Dutchess County. They expect to be harvesting an exciting selection of heirloom tomatoes, potatoes, peppers, squash, eggplant, onions, edemame, green beans and celeriac (also known as celery root.) Tomatoes dominate this month's issue, and rightly so. They and corn just seem to be the emblem of summer to me.

All of these recipes are vegetarian, but could serve as sides to almost any protein you choose as a main dish. All are simple to make. In fact, some require no cooking at all. 

Summer Grill

Spice Up Your Meals With Magnificent Marinades

by Bruce Beaty

If June is the month that jump-starts outdoor grilling and entertaining, then July is the month that turbo-charges it. There is surely no bigger grilling day than July 4th and   I will probably not cook another “proper” meal indoors until October.  I thought that it might be helpful to give a grill primer with tips for proper grilling, along with some recipes for quick, versatile sauces, salsas and relishes to accompany just about anything you might wish to cook outdoors this summer. 

The first thing to consider is whether to use a charcoal or gas grill. Each has its advantages. One benefit of a charcoal grill is that, along with being much cheaper than a gas grill, food simply tastes better over charcoal. By charcoal, I am referring to hardwood lump charcoal, not pre-soaked briquettes treated with chemicals that can lend an undesirable aftertaste to foods. (Electric fire-starters or natural fire starters are a much better option than lighter fluid.) One disadvantage to grilling over charcoal is that the fire must be lit well enough in advance to allow it to burn down until the coals are covered with white ash, about 45 minutes. One common mistake when charcoal grilling is cooking over a fire that is still too hot. A good rule of thumb about when your grill is ready is if you can hold your hand 5 inches over the coals for 5 seconds, it has burned down long enough. It is also harder to control the temperature of a charcoal grill . 

Recipe: Organic Summer Salad

with Grilled Chicken and Salmon

by Bruce Beaty

June is for me a most welcome month.The days become warmer and longer, school's out, our schedules ease up, and things become a bit more relaxed. It's a transitional month that jump-starts the BBQs' role as the central social area for entertaining and family meals.The way we eat and what we eat reflects this spirit.

We also start to see glimpses of summers' promise in the market; plums, swiss chard, sugar snap peas, strawberries, cherries and for something from the sea, soft shell crabs (softies).

June also marks when the first distributions arrive from the Common Ground Co-op Farm. The get-togethers on farm pick-up days are social events all their own, underscoring for many Beaconites a commitment to the earth-to-table doctrine that truly celebrates the people who grow our food. Look for baby spinach and arugula at the farm for the recipes below.

Spring Means Fresh Produce

Recipes for a perfect lunch or dinner

by Bruce Beaty

Spring is my favorite season for cooking, if only for the arrival of beautiful, bright new produce after the long winter drought of verdant goodies. It's out with root vegetables, slow-braises and stews, and in with lighter, cleaner flavors, and simpler cooking. There is an old Italian adage that goes, "Prudent shopping is 80% of a good meal." Sage advice for any time of year. There is no greater charm to the advent of spring than the display of English peas, artichokes, ramps, rhubarb and of course, regal asparagus in the market.

But Spring is a fickle gal, and one warm, sun-bathed day can give way to a string of cold, blustery days that can delay the arrival, compromise the quality and raise the price of these long-awaited vegetables. It's often best not to jump the gun when buying spring's first offerings. As the season progresses, quality increases, more locally grown produce is available, and prices drop.

The Busy Cook’s Overnight Delights

Three easy dishes for entertaining that can be made the night before

by Kristine Nesslar

I’m back at work full time and while the dinner parties of the past where I prepared for 6 days are out of the question I’m not willing to give up entertaining completely.  The only solution, other than hiring a caterer or having pizza delivered, is to keep it simple and have at least one terrific dish that can be made the night before.

Following are three of my favorite “make ahead” recipes that should be prepared beforehand. These are not recipes that I make for one occasion.